look these up for resale used: AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR Telephoto Zoom ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very Popular
AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED Ultra-Wide Zoom ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Popular
AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR Super Telephoto Zoom ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Popular
AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Kit Zoom ⭐⭐⭐ Common
AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR Entry Telephoto ⭐⭐⭐ Common
📷 Canon
Lens Type Popularity
EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very Popular
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM Telephoto Zoom ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very Popular
EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III USM Wide Zoom ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Popular
EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Prime ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Extremely Popular
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II Kit Zoom ⭐⭐⭐ Common
Cool list. I poked around — here’s what I found on used / resale availability and rough ballpark values (U.S.) for some of these lenses. This gives you a sense of what to watch for (and avoid). (Note: used prices vary a lot with condition, seller reputation, region, etc.)
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## 🔍 Sample Used Listings
Here are a few current used items matching what you asked:
– **product_entity[“turn0product0″,”Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR”]** — used listing on MPB (one site) ~ $394 (low end) citeturn0product0
– **product_entity[“turn0product8″,”Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8E FL VR”]** — used at Unique Photo for ~$1,199.95 citeturn0product8
– **product_entity[“turn0product1″,”Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM”]** — used at ~ $79 (Pixel Connection) citeturn0product1
– **product_entity[“turn0product13″,”Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM (another listing)”]** — used ~ $98.95 citeturn0product13
These are illustrative; not every lens on your list popped up in the quick scan, but you get the idea.
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## 📷 Other Findings & Typical Ranges
– **Nikon AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED** — MPB lists used from ~$509 to $679. citeturn0search0
KEH has “Like New” at ~$755. citeturn0search2
On eBay, some used units ~ $481. citeturn0search4
– **Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM** — MPB: ~$739–$1,319 used. citeturn0search1
B&H used: ~$1,499.95 (with minor cosmetic marks) citeturn0search5
KEH used: $952–$1,083 citeturn0search17
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## ✅ What to Watch Out for When Buying Used
Buying used camera optics is like geology: you want to look for the right “strata.” Here’s your checklist:
1. **Optics & glass condition**
– Scratches, separation, fungus, or haze inside the lens are red flags.
– Check for dust: a little is often acceptable, but heavy dust along optical path or stuck dust is bad.
– Focus/zoom rings should move smoothly — no grinding or wobble.
2. **Aperture blades**
– They should be oil-free and symmetric.
– Sticking blades or sticky oil is a pain to fix.
3. **Internals / mechanical**
– Autofocus should be responsive and accurate.
– VR (Vibration Reduction) units should function.
– Switches and connectors should be intact — broken switches or flakey connectors are common points of failure.
4. **Exterior & mounts**
– Wear & tear is expected; mild dings are fine, big dents are dangerous.
– Lens mount should be clean, no bent tabs, minimal wear.
– Hood, caps, and original accessories raise confidence.
5. **Seller reputation & return policy**
– Trusted sellers (MPB, KEH, B&H used, etc.) often give grading and limited warranty.
– On peer-to-peer sites (eBay, etc.), push for detailed photos and testing results.
– Ask: “Does it back-focus? Does it shift? Are there internal reflections/dust?”
6. **Price vs. repair risk**
– Don’t overpay. If it’s “cheap,” assume some cost to service.
– For high-end lenses (70-200 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8) servicing is costly.
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If you like, I can pull up *all* the current used/resale listings for your full list (with Nikon and Canon lenses) for your region (U.S., or even near Kentucky) and send you a comparison sheet. Want me to do that?
I am looking to buy this lot from liquidation.com I buy a lot there. There is 70 lenses. Here is an image as there is no itemized list. I need to see if I can make a bid on it.
Got it — thanks for the photo. Here’s a breakdown of what you’re actually looking at, so you can judge whether this liquidation lot is worth a bid:
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## 🔎 What’s in the Photo
– **Big zooms (left rows):** I can see several consumer telephoto zooms (Nikon 70–300, 55–200, 18–55 kit types). These are common and not worth much individually ($40–$120 used each depending on condition).
– **Silver-barrel older Nikon zooms:** Looks like 1980s–90s Nikon AF/AI-S glass. Some of these can be collectible, especially if fast primes (e.g. 105mm f/2.5, 50mm f/1.4). But many are low-value third-party Vivitar/Tokina zooms.
– **Center row long zooms:** Multiple 70–210, 80–200, and consumer 70–300 telephotos. Again, mid-value, maybe $70–$150 each max if working.
– **Right side (small primes + misc):** This is where the money *might* be hiding. I see several small Nikon AI/AI-S primes (likely 50mm f/1.8, 35mm f/2, etc.), and some Canon EF primes. Individually those could bring $70–$200 depending on model and glass condition.
– **Odd lenses with ribbed silver aperture rings:** These look like older Minolta/Pentax style manual lenses — mostly low resale unless rare focal length or fast aperture.
– **Lens caps marked Nikon/Canon** — a good sign, but many caps don’t mean valuable lenses. A lot of “generic” 3rd party glass is here too.
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## 💰 Value Estimate (Wholesale / Resale)
– **High-value candidates:** If there are *any* modern pro glass (Canon L, Nikon f/2.8 zooms), they could be $600–$1,500 each used. Hard to confirm from the image though — most look like consumer zooms.
– **Mid-tier value:** The bulk of this lot looks like common Nikon DX kit zooms and older third-party lenses. Those fetch $40–$120 each if clean and functional.
– **Low-tier / duds:** Some of these older manual zooms are practically unsellable (you’ll see $10–$20 resale, sometimes only for parts).
**If all 70 pieces were sellable:**
– At a conservative **$50 average resale** → ~$3,500 gross.
– More realistically (factoring in duds, defects, fungus, and junk glass) → $1,500–$2,200 net resale if you can list and move them individually.
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## ⚠️ Risks
– **No itemized list:** You’re flying blind — might be 80% cheap kit zooms.
– **Condition unknown:** Fungus, haze, oil, or broken autofocus kills resale.
– **Time cost:** Moving 70 lenses individually is work (photos, testing, shipping).
– **Market saturation:** Common lenses (18–55, 55–200, 70–300) are slow sellers unless priced cheap.
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## ✅ Recommendation
If you can snag this lot cheap (say **$1,500**, I’d walk — too much risk without guaranteed high-end glass in there.
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Do you want me to try zooming in on the photo row by row and identify any possible **pro-grade gems** (like a Canon L or Nikon f/2.8) so you know if there’s a jackpot hiding in the pile?
I just realized I paid off most of my loans in the last few days I think I put 3000 of loans to rest. It wiull strengthn my credit score a lot – and I want to use that leverage to buy increasingly more valuable inventory.
That’s a solid move, Rick. Debt paid down = less weight on your credit utilization, and that’s one of the quickest levers for bumping your score. Let’s break it down:
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## 📈 Credit Score Impact
– **Utilization ratio:** Paying off $3k means your balances vs. limits shrink, which can spike your score within 1–2 reporting cycles.
– **Mix/history:** If you didn’t close the accounts, they’ll still age in your favor, just at $0 balance.
– **Debt-to-income optics:** Lenders see you as less risky, giving you more breathing room for bigger credit lines or financing.
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## 🏪 Inventory Strategy
Now that you’ve freed up credit “oxygen,” you can pivot that leverage into resellable assets:
1. **Start with fast-turn items:** Camera lenses, comics, electronics. Small enough to flip quickly, proven resale demand.
2. **Scale with margin, not just volume:** Don’t just add *more* inventory—step up to *higher value per unit*. That way your workload doesn’t explode.
3. **Use credit lines like a lever, not a crutch:** Buy lots you know can clear quickly. Park long-tail items only if the price is a steal.
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## ⚖️ Risk vs. Growth
– **Upside:** Your credit score goes up, you qualify for higher limits or better terms, and you turn that into cash-generating stock.
– **Downside:** Over-leverage by holding too much unsold inventory can drag cash flow, even if credit looks good.
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You basically just bought yourself “optionality.” Instead of lenders owning you, you now get to use their money as a growth tool.
👉 Do you want me to sketch out a **ladder strategy** (like, what tier of inventory to chase next with each credit bump), so you’re not just buying random liquidation lots but actually climbing toward high-ticket flips?
I am not using my business as strategy – it is not even in the optics so this may not apply:Downside: Over-leverage by holding too much unsold inventory can drag cash flow, even if credit looks good.
Gotcha — thanks for clarifying. If this isn’t tied to a business profile and it’s all on **your personal credit**, then the “cash flow optics” I mentioned (the way banks view businesses carrying inventory) don’t apply. What *does* apply:
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## 🚦 Personal Credit Context
– **Credit score only cares** about utilization, payment history, inquiries, age of accounts, and mix.
– **It doesn’t care** if your garage is packed with 70 lenses or 700 comics—you could sit on inventory for years, and FICO won’t blink.
– **The only risk:** if inventory ties up your personal cash to the point you miss minimum payments → that tanks your score.
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## 📊 What This Means for You
– As long as you keep **payments on time** and **balances reasonable vs. limits**, you can stockpile assets/inventory without hurting your score.
– Your only “drag” is *liquidity risk* — you might be sitting on stuff that hasn’t flipped yet while your card statement comes due. That’s a personal cash-flow headache, not a score hit.
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## ⚖️ Practical Angle
Think of it like this:
– **Business credit:** lenders scrutinize inventory turnover.
– **Personal credit:** lenders just see numbers (balances, history).
– **Your leverage play:** pay off debt → bump score → higher limit offers → use that capacity *wisely* (buy stuff you can liquidate steadily).
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So yeah—you’re right. Over-leverage in *inventory terms* won’t show up on your personal credit score. The only thing that shows up is whether you keep the banks paid on time.
👉 Want me to sketch a “safe zone” formula for how much inventory you can float on credit without sweating payment deadlines? That way you can stretch your leverage but never risk a personal score dip.