Well pump rebuild guide – Dr. Trippers Stuff

I need to rebuild a well pump, not the motor but the parts that drive the impellor?

Got it — you’re rebuilding a well pump **wet end** (the pump part that actually moves the water), **not** the motor. This means you’re dealing with the impellers, diffusers, shaft, bearings, seals, and possibly the check valve.

Here’s a concise walkthrough of what’s typically involved:

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### 🛠️ Parts You’re Rebuilding (Wet End):
1. **Impellers** – The spinning blades that push water.
2. **Diffusers** – Direct water between impeller stages.
3. **Shaft** – Connects impellers to motor; might need cleaning or replacing.
4. **Bearings/sleeves** – Reduce friction on the shaft.
5. **Wear rings / bushings** – Maintain close tolerances.
6. **Seal (Mechanical or packing)** – Keeps water from leaking into motor.
7. **Check valve** – Prevents water from backflowing down the well.

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### 🧰 Tools & Materials You’ll Likely Need:
– Bearing puller or gear puller
– Soft mallet & brass drift
– Snap ring pliers
– Pipe wrenches
– Anti-seize or thread sealant
– New gaskets, O-rings, or seal kits
– Torque wrench (if specs are critical)
– Clean bench + container for small parts

—

### 🧭 Basic Rebuild Steps (Submersible or Jet Style):
1. **Remove Pump from Casing**
– Carefully disconnect from piping and pull out.
2. **Disassemble Wet End**
– Remove bolts or screws.
– Pull off the housing, diffusers, and impellers. Some impellers are screw-on, others keyed or locked by pins.
3. **Inspect Components**
– Check for cracks, pitting, warping, corrosion. Replace damaged parts.
4. **Replace Bearings, Bushings, Seals**
– Press or tap them out gently.
5. **Clean & Reassemble**
– Clean everything thoroughly (use vinegar or CLR if scaled).
– Reassemble in reverse order. Replace O-rings and gaskets.
– Use torque specs where needed (especially for shaft coupling).

—

### 🔍 Tips:
– Label each part as you remove it — order matters.
– If the impeller stack is multi-stage, be meticulous about order and spacing.
– If using a mechanical seal, avoid touching seal faces with fingers — oils will ruin it.
– Check shaft straightness before reassembly (a bent shaft = ruined rebuild).

—

### ⚠️ Pro Tip:
If the pump is over ~10 years old and used daily, consider replacing the **entire wet end kit**. Many manufacturers (like Grundfos, Franklin, Goulds, Sta-Rite) sell them as pre-matched sets.

—

Want to go further? Drop the model or type of pump (submersible, jet, centrifugal) and brand — I’ll get you the specific teardown steps and parts diagrams.
FW Serial No 1939574

You’re working with a **Flint & Walling (FW)** **submersible pump**, identified by serial number **1939574**—but that alone doesn’t pinpoint the **wet‑end parts** like the impellers, diffusers, shaft, cartridge assembly, etc.

### 🧩 What You Actually Need:
Serial numbers don’t directly map to part numbers for the **wet‑end**. To rebuild the “wet end” (impellers + diffusers + shaft + bearing + slinger, etc.), you’ll need the **model or series**—not just the serial number. From the datasheets from Flint & Walling, these pumps are typically sold as complete **cartridge assemblies**, which include the impellers, diffusers, hex‑shaft with coupling, bearing and slinger citeturn0search3turn0search4. They list part‑numbers by **GPM, stages, and horsepower**, but serial isn’t among the data they publish for ordering repairs.

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### ✅ Action Steps to Identify Correct Parts

1. **Locate the pump tag or model plate**
It’s usually stamped or attached to the pump volute (not on the motor). It includes GPM, stages, threads, and model or part number citeturn0search9.

2. **Inspect for identifiers**
If the tag is faded or missing, note casting numbers or engraved codes on the shell or discharge head.

3. **Contact Flint & Walling or Franklin Electric**
Provide them the serial number—they can decode the model, GPM, stage count, and proper cartridge part number.

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### 🛠️ Rebuild Options with Cartridge Kits

– Typical **cartridge assemblies** group all critical wet-end components:
– Impellers
– Diffusers
– Shaft + coupling
– Bearing
– Slinger
– E‑clip (in older styles)
– Possibly diffuser plates or spacers, depending on stages citeturn0search3turn0search4

– For these FW pumps, parts are often sold only inside the full repair cartridge (i.e. you don’t buy individual impellers or shafts) citeturn0search3turn0search4.

—

### 💡 Practical Example

If your pump is a **5 GPM, 2 HP model**, the datasheet might show a cartridge part number like `022230`. It’ll contain everything you need to rebuild the wet end—no separate imitators.

But to get that number reliably, you still need the model or pump GPM/stage count—serial alone won’t cut it.

—

### 🧭 Summary

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### 🏁 Next Steps

1. **Find the pump’s nameplate or tag** and read off the model info.
2. **Take a photo or transcribe GPM / stage / casting codes.**
3. **Contact Flint & Walling or Franklin Electric**, mention the serial and model details—they’ll provide the correct cartridge part number.
4. Order the cartridge kit to rebuild your impeller end fully.

Want help interpreting the tag or numbers if you find them? Just send me the details, and I’ll help you identify the right part kit.
It is CPJ910b

Great — thanks for the model number. Your pump is a **Flint & Walling CPJ10B convertible jet pump** (1 HP), part of the CPJ series used for shallow and deep well applications, typically delivering up to ~23–24 GPM and up to 70–90 psi pressure citeturn0search4turn0search10turn0search8.

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### 🔧 Wet‑End Rebuild Parts for CPJ10B

According to Flint & Walling’s **FW0030 service parts manual**, the rebuild **service kit** for the CPJ10B wet-end includes:

– Impeller
– Diffuser
– Rotary (mechanical) seal with spring
– Square‑cut ring (shaft seal housing seal)
– Diffuser rubber gasket/ring citeturn0search0

This is the **cartridge-style service kit** covering all core wetted components you need to overhaul the wet end.

—

### 🧰 How to Proceed

1. **Order the CPJ10B service kit** (parts list indicates *Model CPJ10B corresponds to the 1 HP kit part* in FW0030). It contains everything: impeller, diffuser, seal, ring, rubber gasket.
2. **Disassemble** the pump wet end by removing the mounting ring and accessing the impeller/diffuser stack.
3. **Replace** all components from the kit; inspect and clean the pump body and motor bracket area.
4. **Reassemble** in reverse order: diffuser(s), impeller onto shaft, square‑cut seal ring, new rotary seal. Ensure proper alignment and torque.
5. **Prime and test** per installation manual.

—

### 🧾 Why That Specific Kit?

– It’s designed to match your model CPJ10B wet‑end configuration.
– Ensures compatibility of pre-balanced parts and correct seal tolerances.
– Saves you from sourcing individual components separately and ensures warranty compliance citeturn0search0turn0search8.

—

### 🧭 Quick Checklist

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### 🛠️ Pro Tips and Gotchas

– The impellers on CPJ models use **thermoplastic material**, not brass (only used in 1½ HP and higher) citeturn0search8.
– The **rotary seal** is a **silicon‑carbide self-adjusting style**—don’t touch the faces with greasy fingers.
– Ensure the **square-cut ring** (seal housing ring) seats properly to prevent motor ingress.
– Follow torques from manual if available; excessive overtightening can warp diffusers or damage the seal.

—

### ✅ TL;DR

Order the dedicated **CPJ10B wet-end service (rebuild) kit** from Flint & Walling’s parts manual FW0030. It bundles impeller, diffuser, seal components in a single service packet tailored for your model. Replace all those parts in one go, reassemble carefully, and test the pump.

Need help walking through disassembly or identifying torque/assembly order? Just shout — happy to guide you step‑by‑step.
The tech said it waqs turning but not building pressure?
Ah, classic symptom. If the motor is spinning but **no pressure builds**, it means the impeller’s doing a whole lot of nothing. Here’s the shortlist of **likely causes**, in order of commonality and relevance to your CPJ10B:

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### 🔍 Likely Causes (and Fixes)

—

### 🔧 Quick Diagnostic Steps

1. **Remove motor & inspect impeller**
– If it spins freely but looks worn, cracked, or loose = bingo.
2. **Check diffuser fit**
– Should sit tight against housing. Warping or cracks = loss of flow path.
3. **Look for cavitation wear or scaling**
– Pitting and erosion = sign of running dry or air ingress.
4. **Check priming**
– Open top plug — is pump full of water? No = needs re-priming or seal check.
5. **Inspect suction piping for leaks**
– Especially joints, foot valve, and ejector nozzle if used.

—

### 🎯 TL;DR Diagnosis
If it turns but builds no pressure, your **impeller is toast**, your **diffuser is loose or cracked**, or **air is getting in somewhere**. A full wet-end rebuild kit will solve 90% of these issues in one go.

Want to go MacGyver with it before buying parts? I can walk you through a field test checklist using just a wrench, garden hose, and a bucket.
find costs on in-well pumps for a 75 ft well

If you’re looking into **in‑well (submersible) pumps** for a well about **75 ft deep**, here’s what you can expect for prices, performance, and total installed costs:

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## 💧1. Pump Unit Cost (Without Install)

Based on common market options for ~75 ft wells:

– **Mid‑range submersible pumps** (approx. ½‑1 HP, 10–20 GPM): $400–$1,200 each
citeturn0search6turn0search4turn0search2
– A 1 HP **Flint & Walling submersible pump** (10 GPM, up to ~470 ft lift) is priced around **$1,120**
citeturn0product2
– Budget models (like Everbilt or Vevor) for submersibles start around **$500–$700** depending on HP and lift ratings
citeturn0product1turn0product6turn0product0

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## 💲2. Typical Unit Price Examples

products{“selections”:[[“turn0product2″,”Flint & Walling 1 HP Submersible Pump (10 GPM)”],[“turn0product6″,”RPS ½ HP Submersible Pump (~12 GPM)”],[“turn0product1″,”Everbilt ¾ HP Submersible Pump (10 GPM)”]],”tags”:[“Reliable brand, ~$1,120″,”Efficient ½ HP option, ~$659″,”Budget ¾ HP pick, ~$529”]}

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## 🚧3. Estimate Installed Cost (Equipment + Labor)

From aggregated cost guides:
– Total installed cost for **submersible well pump** (unit + materials + labor): **$1,200 to $2,500**, sometimes higher depending on depth and region
– For wells **25–150 ft deep**, typical installed cost tends toward the lower end of that range
citeturn0search3turn0search1turn0search9

### Breakdown:
– **Pump unit**: $400–$1,200
– **Drop pipe, cable, check valve, fittings**: $250–$800
– **Labor (install/removal)**: $250–$1,000
– **Permits/Inspections (if needed)**: $50–$500
citeturn0search2turn0search1turn0search4

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## 🧩4. Summary Table

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## 🔎5. Tips & Considerations

– If the water draw is moderate and your depth 75 ft, a **½–1 HP stainless steel submersible** is usually enough.
– Buy from a trusted brand (Franklin, Goulds, Flint & Walling, RPS) for warranty and durability under continuous use.
– Budget models (like Vevor, Everbilt) work and cost less up front, but reliability can vary.
– Be aware: labor and wiring often cost more than the pump itself. Expect a quote of around **$1,500–$2,000 total**, depending on where you live.
citeturn0reddit16turn0search1turn0reddit14

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## ✅ TL;DR

– **Installed submersible pump for a 75 ft well:** Expect **$1,200–$2,500** total cost.
– **Standalone pump (unit only):** Around **$400–$1,200**, depending on size and brand.
– Good match: **1 HP Flint & Walling** (~$1,120), or efficient **½ HP RPS** (~$659). See product carousel above for quick links.

Want help sizing for your specific household demand (e.g. GPM needs), or recommendations for suppliers/installers in your area? I can help dig deeper.
Maybe just buying a new pump with motor is the way to go. Question. Does the pressure switch have to match the motor or can I use a 90psi switch on any motor/pump?
Solid question — and this is where **pump systems and plumbing pressure settings** can get a bit… “explody” if done wrong.

—

### 🧠 Short Answer:
The **pressure switch doesn’t have to match the motor** per se — it has to match the **pump’s pressure capabilities** and your **system’s plumbing limits**.

—

### 🧨 Here’s the Deal:

#### ✅ What the pressure switch *must* match:
1. **Pump performance curve**
– Your pump must be able to **deliver the *cut-off pressure*** (the high end of the switch, e.g. 90 psi) **at the tank flow rate**.
– Example: If your pump’s max pressure is 70 psi, and you slap on a 90/70 switch, it’ll **run forever**, **never shut off**, and likely overheat, burn out, or trip.

2. **Tank pressure rating**
– Standard well pressure tanks are usually **rated to 100 psi max** — using a 90 psi cut-off is cutting it close. Not great for longevity.

3. **Plumbing pressure rating**
– Many fittings, valves, and PEX lines are rated to 100–125 psi — but older systems might not be.

—

### ❌ What it does *not* need to match:
– The motor HP, voltage, or RPM (as long as the **switch amperage** rating is high enough).
– The brand or model of the pump/motor.

—

### ⚠️ Why 90 PSI Is Rarely Used:
– Most residential setups use a **40/60** or **30/50** switch.
– 70/90 is for **high-rise buildings, irrigation booster systems**, or systems with high drawdown tanks.
– High-pressure cutoffs stress seals, tank bladders, and copper solder joints.

—

### ✅ Recommendations:
– Check the **pump’s max shutoff head (pressure)** on its curve. Make sure it can hit 90 psi **with some headroom**.
– Use a **pressure switch with a margin of ~10–15 psi below** the pump’s max pressure.
– **Tank should be rated to 100 psi+** or you’ll be rolling the dice.

—

### 🧭 TL;DR:
You can technically use any switch, but the **pressure rating must match what the pump can actually produce**, and what the tank/plumbing can survive. A **90psi switch** is **not universal** — it’s high-pressure territory. If you’re replacing the pump anyway, stick with **40/60 or 50/70** unless you have a special high-pressure need.

Want to drop the model of the new pump you’re eyeing? I’ll sanity-check if a 90psi switch is safe for it.
This is a reliance 36 galllon upright tank
Perfect — that tells us a lot. The **Reliance 36-gallon upright pressure tank** is a standard diaphragm (bladder) tank typically rated for **working pressures up to 100 PSI** — but let’s drill down a bit before you go 90 PSI cowboy on it.

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### 📦 Tank Specs (for your Reliance 36-gal upright):

| Feature | Value |
|———————–|———————————|
| Tank size | 36 gallons (holds ~10–12 usable gallons) |
| Max working pressure | **100 PSI** |
| Pre-charge (factory) | 38 PSI |
| Typical switch range | 30/50 or 40/60 |

—

### 🧠 What This Means for a 90 PSI Switch:

– Your tank **can technically handle** 90 PSI shut-off, but you’ll be operating **dangerously close** to its rated limit.
– With a 90 PSI cut-off, you’d need a **cut-in around 70 PSI**, which means:
– **Your pump must consistently hit 90+ PSI**
– You must **precharge the tank to ~68 PSI**, which is nearly double the factory pre-charge.
– Even a **slight over-pressurization or thermal spike** could cause bladder rupture or tank failure.

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### 💣 Why This Might Be a Bad Idea

1. **You’re 10 PSI from the red zone**
– Any switch misfire, thermal expansion, or bad pressure gauge could push the tank beyond safe limits.

2. **Reduced tank drawdown**
– Higher pressure = less usable water per cycle = more pump cycling = more wear.

3. **Plumbing risk**
– Copper, fittings, or PEX rated for 100–125 PSI can be stressed if your switch drifts.

—

### ✅ Recommended Pressure Switch Range for That Tank:
– **40/60 or 50/70** is the sweet spot.
– Safe.
– Efficient.
– Matches most submersible pumps (especially in the ½–1 HP range).

—

### 🧭 TL;DR:
Yes, your **Reliance 36-gal tank can survive 90 PSI**, but **just barely**. Unless you’re boosting water to the 15th floor or running a pressure washer farm, go with **40/60 or 50/70** to stay safe and extend your system’s life.

Want a suggestion for a submersible pump and switch combo that matches that tank and gives good pressure?
Quit with the 90 it was an example. I just need a pump/motor recommendation for this tank. The well is 75ft
Got it — no more 90 PSI talk. You’ve got:

– A **36-gallon Reliance pressure tank** (standard)
– A **75 ft deep well**
– You want a solid **submersible pump/motor combo** that’ll just *work*, match the tank, and not give you gray hairs.

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### 🧠 Basic Sizing Logic

At 75 ft well depth, you’re well within the range for a **½ to 1 HP 10 GPM submersible pump** — perfect for residential use (1–2 baths, garden hose, etc.). You’ll likely draw from **30–50 ft water depth**, so total dynamic head (TDH) is moderate.

Your tank size supports typical 10–12 GPM drawdown. So we spec the pump for:

– **10 GPM flow**
– **50–70 PSI shut-off capability**
– **Works with 40/60 or 30/50 switch**
– **½–¾ HP for energy efficiency**, unless you’ve got irrigation or a large household.

—

### ✅ Top Pump Recommendations

#### 1. **Franklin Electric 10FM05S4-2W230**
– **½ HP**, 10 GPM, 230V, 2-wire
– Excellent reliability, built-in thermal protection
– Handles lifts to ~150 ft
– 💰 ~$550–$650
– ✅ Plug-and-play match for 40/60 switch and your tank

#### 2. **Goulds 10GS05422C**
– **½ HP**, 10 GPM, 230V, 2-wire
– Stainless-steel, durable, USA-made
– 🧰 Requires control box if using 3-wire version
– 💰 ~$650–$800
– ✅ Long-term workhorse

#### 3. **RPS ½ HP 10GPM Solar/AC Hybrid Option**
– AC or solar hybrid-ready
– Great if you’re off-grid-curious
– 💰 ~$600–$750
– ✅ Modern, efficient, modular

#### 4. **Flint & Walling 4F10S05405**
– 10 GPM, **½ HP**, 2-wire, 230V
– Stainless construction
– 💰 ~$600–$700
– ✅ Reliable and easy to source replacements

—

—

### 🧭 TL;DR

– **Franklin Electric ½ HP 10 GPM 2-wire** pump = best blend of quality + price.
– Will work perfectly with your 36-gal tank and a 40/60 pressure switch.
– Unless you’ve got a herd of thirsty cattle or a two-acre irrigation system, **½ HP is plenty** for a 75 ft well.

Want a source link or breakdown for a specific model?
Find pumps that are a cheaper replacement for the CPJ10B

If you’re looking to replace your **Flint & Walling CPJ10B** with something more budget-friendly, here are a few solid alternatives that pack similar performance at a better price point:

products{“selections”:[[“turn0product6″,”Flint & Walling CPJ07B 3⁄4 HP Jet Pump”],[“turn0product2″,”Flint & Walling EK10S 1 HP Jet Pump”],[“turn0product14″,”Goulds JRD10 1 HP Convertible Jet Pump”]],”tags”:[“¾ HP (~20 GPM) – lower cost than CPJ10B”,”1 HP EK series – ~$680 MSRP”,”1 HP Goulds JRD10 – ~$799, quality alternative”]}

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### 🔧 Recommended Alternatives

– **product_entity[“turn0product6″,”Flint & Walling CPJ07B 3⁄4 HP Jet Pump”]**
A smaller sibling to your CPJ10B—**¾ HP** instead of 1 HP, but rated for similar lift/depth and good for light residential use. It’s roughly **$1,250**, cheaper than the CPJ10B’s ~$1,374 list priceciteturn0search5turn0search1.

– **product_entity[“turn0product2″,”Flint & Walling EK10S 1 HP Jet Pump”]**
Still **1 HP** like your current unit, but from the economical **EK series**. Flint & Walling’s EK line is simpler, durable, and priced around **$679**—about half of a new CPJ10Bciteturn0product2.

– **product_entity[“turn0product14″,”Goulds JRD10 1 HP Convertible Jet Pump”]**
Likely your best quality-for-cost replacement. Goulds is respected in the industry, and the JRD10 is a direct **1 HP convertible jet pump**, priced at about **$799**citeturn0product14.

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### 📊 Comparison Overview

| Pump Model | HP | Flow (approx) | Depth Rated | Price | Notes |
|—————-|——–|—————-|————-|————–|———————————————-|
| CPJ10B | 1 HP | ~20 GPM | ~75 ft | ~$1,374 | Your current spec |
| CPJ07B | ¾ HP | ~16 GPM | ~75 ft | ~$1,250 | Lower cost, slightly less capacity |
| EK10S | 1 HP | ~20 GPM | ~75 ft | ~$679 | Budget 1 HP option, good balance of cost/performance |
| Goulds JRD10 | 1 HP | ~20 GPM | ~75 ft | ~$799 | Trusted brand, best economy pick |

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### 🧐 Thoughts & Community Notes

– Reddit users often recommend Flint & Walling’s **CJ or SPJ series** for reliable replacement—but EK and CJ lines differ in design and build qualityciteturn0reddit21.
– Another user noted the quality and availability of **Flint & Walling CJ101 centrifugal pumps** as a reliable upgrade path beyond the CPJ lineciteturn0reddit14turn0search9.
– If you don’t need full 1 HP (lower volume usage), the **¾ HP CPJ07B** often suffices and will draw less current.

—

### ✅ Best Recommendations

– For the **closest spec to CPJ10B at a lower price**, the **Goulds JRD10** or **EK10S** are both solid, respectable picks.
– If you’re willing to drop to ¾ HP (still plenty for typical residential use and your ~75 ft well), the **CPJ07B** could save you a few bucks without sacrificing fit.

—

Need help picking based on your actual GPM needs, existing electrical wiring, or pressure switch setup? Just say the word!
Ok, I really need help understanding the manufactures numbering and cross usage. I think. First, this kit 023705 1HP, CPJ & CPH Jet Pumps and VPH10 is available for my pump. It has these parts: Ring, Square Cut – 132439
Seal, Rotary w/Spring – 1
Impeller – 134138
Diffuser – 132425
Rubber, Diffuser – 1 <<– I also find this on eBay: 023705 Water Systems Repair Kit 2 HP Lawn Sprinkler Irrigation Pump Repair Kit – It has sq cut ring, rotary seal with spring, impeller, diffuser insert, rubber diffuser <<–One is sold as Brand
CTY-Auto

Type
2 HP Lawn Sprinkler Irrigation Pump Repair Kit

Model
023705

Material
rubber and metal

Warranty
1 Year

Color
Black

MPN
023705

Fitment
for Star and Utilitech

Set Includes
023705 Lawn Sprinkler Irrigation Pump Repair Kit AKA CTY-9420. Are these the same kits just packaged igfferently or is there something I am missing?

Great question — and you're right to dig into the **part number crossover confusion**, especially with aftermarket kits.

Let’s break it down:

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### 🔧 Original Kit: Flint & Walling #023705
Officially designated for:
– **1 HP** models of **CPJ**, **CPH**, and **VPH10** series jet pumps
– Includes OEM parts:
– **Square Cut Ring** – 132439
– **Rotary Seal w/ Spring**
– **Impeller** – 134138
– **Diffuser** – 132425
– **Rubber Diffuser insert**

✅ **This is a genuine match** for your **CPJ10B** pump.

—

### 🧰 eBay Kit: CTY-Auto 023705
Sold under:
– Brand: **CTY-Auto**
– Labeled as:
– **"2 HP Lawn Sprinkler Irrigation Pump Repair Kit"**
– Cross-listed for **Star** and **Utilitech** pumps
– Includes:
– Parts *functionally* identical to above: rotary seal, impeller, diffuser, etc.
– Sometimes listed as **CTY-9420** (likely their internal SKU)

—

### 🔍 So are they the same?

**Mechanically** – probably yes.
**Fit & function** – probably yes *if* the impeller and diffuser dimensions match.

But here’s the **gotcha**:

—

### 🧠 Bottom Line:
– **If the CTY-Auto kit lists 134138 and 132425**, it’s likely just an **aftermarket version of 023705** — possibly manufactured for rebranding or for other generic pump lines that match F&W dimensions.
– Some rebrands (like Utilitech or Star) are **white-label versions** of pumps made by companies like F&W. So the kit fits all of them.
– You may see **“2 HP”** used loosely; many sellers don’t know/care that impellers/diffusers are **power-rated**, and just lump multiple fits under one listing.

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### ✅ Recommendation:

– If the CTY-Auto kit includes the **exact part numbers** (132439, 134138, 132425), you’re **safe to buy it**.
– If not listed clearly, or listed for **2 HP only**, **don’t risk it**. Impellers are sized for motor power. A 2 HP impeller in a 1 HP pump could overwork the motor.

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Want me to double-check a specific eBay listing or dimensions? Drop me the link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396890355285?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D290004%2C290496%2C289600%26meid%3De2f9ad43d25847ca8abf1524dbbdb5bb%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D316931802142%26itm%3D396890355285%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV3WithCPCExpansionEmbeddingSearchQuerySemanticBroadMatchSingularityRecallReplaceKnnV4WithVectorDbNsOptHotPlRecallCIICentroidCoviewCPCAuto&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A396890355285e2f9ad43d25847ca8abf1524dbbdb5bb%7Cenc%3AAQAKAAABcG96wQ16jds4VFcrhy1F3d4mbwZUJI9Fs%252BgdXYAHIzlX2e3YaNh7x%252BEnKA3G%252BCqSl1Xn4McfcWFK1GytmS2qxJ87mtE8Gm3iR1Ja4WBwh0hNHJrJx3Ki5mp04ow4CO7lP%252BooCybZDDU%252BbbSwmg7CbTin%252BBzBzbCYVnbjvyQAHu6–HI4MB7SvJl5IJqlyvomgoLMlgT6qAJzX0SANJhty2dTmfik9TiFwEC9yUI0djh9cCxHRvZqpHSqRopJXSah2LatWPLtxzSNzR7tNu79N%252FHhBMGNNytzyR5zcpvzsoawbp2E%252BkvC5Xm9sY7thRhUQw%252F78VHiNE2hTOg7CdmhhkXIYMEOpxOUfiMZq7PrYdRnLVpBAy0UfuXTIoWKtefN0WKjcIt%252B1eCmijER5fZaAWeziCBAyOaEV9%252BVoCxN6GitXCxbRZRDpAk6tq%252FhAD0qF3SmkzQiGKGcbqnEaF3nbznUxLvZQXOk27WyoSJsh8o5%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K1TM0DQJSYTJZ10JVVA96P8Z
The eBay kit you linked ([item #396890355285](https://www.ebay.com/itm/396890355285)) appears to be a generic repair kit marketed for 2 HP lawn sprinkler and irrigation pumps. Despite sharing the same part number **023705**, it may not be an exact match for your **Goulds CPJ10B (1 HP)** pump.

Here’s the deal:
– The *OEM Goulds 023705* kit is specifically labeled for **1 HP CPJ, CPH, and VPH10** pumps.
– The **CTY-Auto/CTY-9420** kit seems to repurpose the same number for a **2 HP** application.

These may *look* the same but impeller/diffuser sizing and tolerances likely differ. Stick to a **Goulds-labeled** or verified 1 HP CPJ10B-compatible kit unless you can verify dimensions part-by-part.

Want me to help compare those dimensions if you have them?
Zoeller 1333-006, Star HSP202P1, Do it Best HSPJ20P1, Utilitech UTP20P1 are the models listed for the aftermarket kit –
Great — now we’re getting clarity.

That aftermarket kit (023705) you're looking at appears to be **intended for a *different class* of pumps** — specifically models like:

– **Zoeller 1333-006**
– **Star HSP202P1**
– **Do it Best HSPJ20P1**
– **Utilitech UTP20P1**

These are **typically 2 HP sprinkler/jet pumps**, and **not equivalent** to the **Goulds CPJ10B**, which is a **1 HP convertible jet pump**.

**Bottom line:** That aftermarket kit will *not* be a clean fit for your CPJ10B. The impeller size and diffuser design will likely mismatch. If you're rebuilding a **CPJ10B**, stick with an OEM or *CPJ10B-labeled* kit.

Want help sourcing a genuine one at a better price?
Yes

You've done great digging — here's the distilled truth:

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### ✅ OEM Kit 023705 — What It *Really* Is

– **Genuine OEM** Flint & Walling **service kit #023705** is specifically for **1 HP CPJ, CPH, and VPH10** jet pumps — that includes your **CPJ10B** model.
It officially contains:
– Square-cut ring (132439)
– Rotary seal w/spring
– Impeller (134138)
– Diffuser (132425)
– Diffuser rubber insert
citeturn0search6turn0search14

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### ⚠️ Aftermarket “023705” Kits Are *Not* the Same

– The eBay/CTY-Auto/Star/Utilitech kits you saw (Zoeller 1333-006, Star HSP202P1, Utilitech UTP20P1, etc.) are marketed for **2 HP pump models**, despite using the same part number.
– These **are not interchangeable** with the OEM 1 HP CPJ10B kit — the impeller geometry, diffuser size, and tolerances are likely mismatched.
citeturn0search7turn0search0

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### 🔍 Why This Happens

Some manufacturers **re-use part numbers** across unrelated product lines or OEM re-packagers might reuse OEM numbers for aftermarket kits. But matching number ≠ guaranteed correct fit or spec.

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### 🏆 What to Get Instead

You want an **OEM genuine kit**, correctly labeled 1 HP CPJ10/CPJ10B. Examples include:
– Flint & Walling part **KF16‑023705** (as listed on suppliers like PACE)
citeturn0search12
– BWPP listings showing the correct services part for CPJ/CPH series
citeturn0search4turn0search1

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### 💡 Where to Buy It

– **Contact a Flint & Walling parts distributor** (e.g. PACE Supply or WWPP)—ask specifically for **KF16‑023705 (CPJ10B service kit)**.
– **Ask for the OEM parts list**: Confirm it contains numbers **132439**, **134138**, **132425**, etc.
– **Expect a price** in the range of $150–$200 for the full kit.

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### 🧾 Summary Table

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### 🧭 TL;DR

– The **OEM service kit #023705** is exclusive to 1 HP CPJ/CPH models, including your CPJ10B.
– Third-party sellers using the same number for 2 HP models are **not compatible**.
– Only purchase a kit that explicitly lists the correct OEM part numbers and fits CPJ10B.

Need help finding a reliable source or comparing distributors? I can help you locate one.
Looking for something cheaper that 150

You're looking for an OEM CPJ10B rebuild kit for **under $150**. Here's what we found:

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### 💰 OEM Kit Pricing from Official Sources

From **WWPP / Flint & Walling**, the **KF16–023705** service kit (for 1 HP CPJ, CPH, VPH10 pumps) is listed at **$163** citeturn0search2.

The **individual part prices** break down roughly as:
– Square-cut ring: ~$14
– Rotary seal w/spring: ~$68
– Impeller (134138): ~$84
– Diffuser (132425): ~$83
– Diffuser rubber: ~$17
These combined match the content of the kit citeturn0search2.

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### ⚠️ Why $150 Is Hard to Hit

Even if bought piecemeal, the cost of individual OEM components tends to exceed $150 total:
– Impeller + diffuser alone are in the ~$160 + ballpark.
– Seal + ring + rubber diffuser add more—even standalone they approach $100.

So unless you find a trusted sale or discount close to cost, hitting under $150 is unlikely with official parts.

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### 🛒 Budget Alternative Options

#### 1. **Buy used OEM parts**
– Occasionally found on eBay or surplus sites at discounted rates.
– Look for sellers offering **individual OEM part numbers 132439, 134138, 132425**.

#### 2. **Careful aftermarket pick**
– Only if you can verify the **exact impeller and diffuser match** your model.
– Many aftermarket kits labeled “023705” were for different 2 HP pumps—avoid those if they don't specify your model.

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### ✅ Summary Table

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### 🧭 TL;DR

– The **genuine OEM kit** (KF16–023705) is priced just above your $150 target at **$163**—the most reliable path.
– Getting it cheaper usually means buying used OEM parts (with condition risk).
– Beware of non‑OEM kits labeled for other pump brands, even if they use “023705”—they often don’t match.

Would you like help locating a trusted seller, checking out a used parts listing, or sorting through a potential aftermarket option?