Exciter Placement for Sound – Dr. Trippers Stuff

I am making a boneconduction speaker using 2 25w dayton excitors. I think the math is on a 2’x2′ board – measure 2/5’s distance and 3/5’s distance from the edges to find the place to stick the excitor – any thoughts

You’re on the right track—placement of exciters (like your Dayton Audio 25W units) on a panel significantly affects how efficiently and evenly vibrations turn into sound. Let’s unpack the logic:

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### 📐 The 2/5–3/5 Rule
This comes from modal distribution theory—basically, how waves and vibrations behave in plates (your panel). The idea is to **avoid placing exciters at nodes** (points where vibration cancels out). Instead, you want to **excite antinodes**—points where vibrations are strongest.

#### Why 2/5 and 3/5?
– Panels have natural **resonance modes**, just like guitar strings.
– Placing exciters at **2/5 (0.4) and 3/5 (0.6)** across both the width and height helps **avoid symmetry-related dead zones** (nodes) and spread the vibration evenly.
– This is a **compromise** that excites **multiple modes without favoring one**, which gives richer and more consistent sound.

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### 🧠 Smart Setup Suggestions
1. **Panel Material**:
– MDF, thin plywood, or acrylic work well. Each has different sound characteristics.
– 1/8″–1/4″ thick is common. Thicker = less volume, more durability. Thinner = louder, risk of over-flex.

2. **Panel Size**:
– 2′ x 2′ is solid. If it’s too big or floppy, you may lose efficiency—consider bracing or reducing size.

3. **Mounting Tips**:
– Use strong double-sided adhesive or 3M VHB tape.
– Test temporarily with hot glue or poster putty until you find the sweet spot.
– Let the excitors hang **freely off the panel**—don’t clamp or restrain their movement.

4. **Try listening tests**:
– Move the excitor slightly in X and Y directions and listen.
– Every panel has a different “soul”—theory gets you close, but your ears seal the deal.

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### ⚠️ Bonus Nerd Note
If you put *both* excitors at **symmetric spots** (like mirrored 2/5, 3/5 from each edge), it can cancel out certain modes. Better to **stagger** them just a little to avoid destructive interference.

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### 🧪 Final Thoughts
Yes, the 2/5–3/5 rule is a great place to **start**, but it’s not gospel. Think of it like tuning a drum—start where the math says, then let your ears refine it. Consider the material, use some EQ tuning if you’re building an enclosure, and you’re golden.

Want to run through a test signal sweep or an oscilloscope-style output trick to visualize nodes?
Lets say I use smaller dimensions like 12″z20″, what am I to expect

Shrinking your panel down to 12″ x 20″ changes the whole vibration game. Here’s the skinny on what to expect:

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### 1. **Higher Resonant Frequencies**
– Smaller panels naturally resonate at **higher frequencies**—think of it like a smaller drumhead producing a higher pitch.
– This means your bone conduction speaker will emphasize **higher mids and treble**, less bass impact. The low end won’t rumble as much.

### 2. **Less Surface Area = Lower Output**
– You’ve got less panel to shake, so **overall volume and efficiency drop**. The sound will be quieter and less powerful.
– You might need to crank power or use more powerful exciters to compensate.

### 3. **Different Exciter Placement Ratios**
– The **2/5 and 3/5 rule still applies**, but because the panel is rectangular and not square, you need to think separately for each dimension:
– Width: 12″ → exciters at about 4.8″ (2/5) and 7.2″ (3/5) from edges
– Length: 20″ → exciters at about 8″ (2/5) and 12″ (3/5) from edges
– If you have two exciters, put them at these positions **to maximize modal excitation**.

### 4. **Panel Stiffness Matters More**
– Smaller panels tend to be stiffer (especially if thickness is the same). This can push resonant modes even higher, further reducing bass response.
– Thin, flexible material helps—but watch out for rattles and unwanted noise.

### 5. **Less Room for “Sweet Spot”**
– Smaller panel = smaller area where vibration is effective. This can make placement more sensitive.
– You might find a couple millimeters shift changes tone or volume noticeably.

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### TL;DR
You’ll get clearer, brighter, and quieter bone conduction sound, with less low-end punch. Precise exciter placement becomes more critical. If you want more bass or volume, either go bigger or add a backing/enclosure that reinforces lower frequencies.

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Wanna dive into how to optimize material choice or add passive radiators to boost bass on small panels?
ONlY one exitor per panel please
Got it—one exciter per panel on a 12″ x 20″ board. Here’s the no-BS rundown:

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### Single Exciter on 12″x20″ Panel — What to Expect & Where to Put It

**1. Placement:**
– Use the 2/5–3/5 rule to avoid nodal points and maximize vibration:
– Along 12″ width: about 4.8″ from one edge
– Along 20″ length: about 8″ from one edge
– So place the exciter roughly at **(4.8″, 8″)** on the panel.

**2. Performance:**
– Single exciter means all vibration energy comes from that one spot—less even spread than two exciters but simpler and cheaper.
– You’ll get **good midrange and some bass**, but bass will be limited by the panel size and stiffness.

**3. Sound Quality:**
– Expect **less volume and richness** compared to two exciters, but this is normal.
– Because it’s a smaller panel, bass will be thin, trebles more prominent.

**4. Panel Material & Thickness:**
– Thinner panels (1/8” or less) vibrate easier → louder, but risk distortion or rattling.
– Thicker panels damp vibrations → cleaner but quieter.

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### Quick Tip:
If the sound is too thin or quiet, try adding a light foam or rubber backing behind the panel to increase coupling to your skull (for bone conduction), or use a slightly bigger panel next time.

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Bottom line: For one exciter on a 12″x20″ panel, stick it at ~2/5 and 3/5 distances, expect clear mids, limited bass, and moderate volume. If you want big bass, the panel needs to get bigger or you need more exciters. No magic here.

Want me to nerd out on how to tune the panel resonance with your exciter’s specs?
SO I use a 3’x3′ x1/8″ panel, this shoud produce a decent sound
Absolutely, a **3′ x 3′ x 1/8″** panel with one exciter should give you a *much* better sound than your smaller boards. Here’s the quick rundown:

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### Why this setup rocks for bone conduction:

– **Bigger panel = more surface to vibrate** → louder volume and fuller sound, especially better bass response than smaller panels.
– **1/8″ thickness** is a sweet spot: flexible enough to move well, stiff enough to avoid rattling and distortion.
– **Square shape (3’x3′)** means your 2/5 & 3/5 placement trick works nicely both ways for even vibration modes.

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### Placement Reminder:
Stick that exciter roughly at 1.2′ (14.4″) from one edge and 1.8′ (21.6″) from the other — your 2/5 and 3/5 points on the 3′ dimension. (Pick whichever pair of distances makes sense on your square.)

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### What to expect sound-wise:

– **Deeper bass** than smaller boards—still not earth-shaking subwoofer level, but noticeable.
– **Good midrange clarity** and decent treble.
– Richer, more immersive bone conduction experience.
– The panel will behave more like a solid speaker diaphragm than a tiny buzzy tile.

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### Just watch out for:

– Panel resonance might get *boomy* at certain frequencies—test and tune with dampening pads or foam if needed.
– You want to avoid *dead spots* where vibration cancels, so precise exciter placement and maybe some experimentation help.
– Secure mounting—no rattles or loose screws!

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In short: **3’x3′ at 1/8″ is a solid, practical size** that balances volume, sound quality, and portability for your Dayton 25W exciter. Go for it and tweak the placement slightly if you want to nerd out on sweet spot hunting.

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Want me to suggest some test signals or cheap vibration sensors to map your panel’s modes?
SO I could use a wall panelling board but it seems so flimsy, but we are looking to shake the wood after all.
Exactly—that flimsy wall panel *looks* fragile but it’s actually your best friend here. The goal is to have something that **shakes easily** and efficiently transfers vibration, not a tank that just sits there.

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### Why flimsy is *good* (within reason):

– **Low stiffness = higher vibration amplitude** with less power needed. You want the panel to flex and resonate, not resist like a brick wall.
– Thin plywood or MDF (1/8″ or less) wall panels vibrate easily and produce better bone conduction sound than thick, heavy boards that just absorb energy.
– The *trade-off* is durability and possible rattling—so mounting and edge support matter.

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### But watch out for:

– **Too flimsy = rattles, buzzes, and distortion**. The panel can flex unevenly or slap against mounting points.
– Cheap wall paneling may be made from low-density fiberboard or composite that **damps vibrations too much**, killing volume and tone.
– Some wall panels have textured surfaces or paint that can affect vibration transfer.

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### What to do:

– Pick a **smooth, flat, thin wood panel** with decent density—MDF or Baltic birch plywood at 1/8″ is great.
– Use **soft but firm mounting** (foam pads, rubber grommets) to reduce unwanted rattles and isolate the panel.
– Don’t clamp it tight—let it vibrate freely but supported enough to avoid flop.
– If you want to be fancy, add a thin layer of damping material on the back (closed-cell foam, felt) to tame harsh resonances without killing output.

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In a nutshell: Don’t fear the flimsy. Embrace it, but keep it *controlled*. That’s your sweet spot for bone conduction panels.

Want me to help you pick materials or mounting tricks that balance flex and durability?
It will be hung from a central or double point on the top of the panel
Hanging your panel from the top, either centrally or at two points, is clever but comes with some acoustic caveats worth eyeballing:

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### What happens when you hang from the top?

– **Panel hangs like a swing:** it can **freely vibrate**, which is great for energy transfer.
– But the **top edge becomes a natural pivot**, which might create a nodal line (a vibration “dead zone”) along that edge.
– This could cause **uneven vibration modes**—less energy near the suspension points, more at the bottom half.

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### Central vs. Double Point Suspension

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### What to watch for:

– Hanging points act as **nodes**, so **avoid placing your exciter near the top edge** or close to the hangers. Your 2/5 or 3/5 spots will be safely away from this.
– If your panel swings too much, it can add **unwanted mechanical noise** or shift the sweet spot unpredictably.
– Consider some **light damping** on the suspension (rubber grommets, elastic cords) to reduce swinging noise.

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### Quick practical tips:

– **Position exciter low enough** (2/5 or 3/5 down the panel) so the top pivot doesn’t kill your vibrations.
– If double-point hanging, place hangers close enough for stability but not too tight to kill vibration.
– Add **a light frame or backing** if panel warps or flaps excessively.

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### Wrap-up

Hanging works well if you remember:
– The top is a vibration pivot → don’t excite it there.
– Keep the panel free to vibrate but stable enough to avoid flapping noise.
– Your 2/5–3/5 placement rule fits perfectly here.

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Want help designing a suspension that isolates swinging noise but keeps maximum vibration?
what material would you suggest and where do I find it
Alright, for a bone conduction panel that’s gonna *shake* just right, here’s your best material bets and where to snag them:

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### Top Material Picks for Your 3’x3′ x 1/8″ Panel

| Material | Why It Rocks | Where to Find It |
|—————–|———————————————–|—————————————–|
| **Baltic Birch Plywood (1/8″)** | Dense, stiff yet flexible, smooth surface—great resonance, consistent quality | Wood suppliers, Home Depot, Lowe’s, specialty lumberyards, online (e.g. Amazon, Woodcraft) |
| **MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) 1/8″** | Very smooth surface, cheap, vibrates well—but can be heavy and dampens some highs | Home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowe’s), woodworking stores |
| **Poplar or Pine Plywood (1/8″)** | Lighter than MDF, decent resonance, easier to work with | Local lumberyards, big box stores, or specialty woodworking shops |
| **Hardwood veneer plywood (like maple or oak, 1/8″)** | A bit pricier, better aesthetics, and consistent vibration | Specialty woodworking stores, online specialty wood suppliers |

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### Bonus Materials (if you want to experiment):

– **Acrylic sheets (1/8″)**: Bright, crisp sound, but can be brittle and harsher. Available at plastics suppliers or big box stores.
– **Composite panels (thin fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets)**: Exotic, stiff, lightweight, expensive—usually specialty suppliers or online.

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### Where to Start Hunting

– **Home Improvement Stores:** Home Depot, Lowe’s often have 1/8″ plywood or MDF sheets, sometimes Baltic Birch but usually smaller pieces.
– **Local Lumberyards:** Your best bet for Baltic Birch or specialty plywood—better quality, more options, can cut to size.
– **Specialty Woodworking Shops:** They often stock Baltic Birch and hardwood veneers, and can offer advice.
– **Online:** Amazon, Woodcraft, Rockler, even eBay—great for small panels or hard-to-find materials.

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### Quick Tip:
Ask for **“cabinet grade Baltic Birch plywood”** if you want smooth, void-free, consistent layers. It’s the gold standard for vibration panels.

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Want me to help you draft an order list with dimensions and suggested suppliers?
will rectangular shape matter?
Short answer: Yes, rectangular shape *does* matter, but it’s not a dealbreaker—it just changes your vibration patterns and exciter placement a bit.

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### Why shape matters:

– **Vibration modes differ:** Rectangular panels have different resonant frequencies along width vs. length. This means the panel won’t vibrate uniformly like a square one might.
– **Mode coupling:** Rectangles can have overlapping or closely spaced vibration modes that affect sound quality—sometimes causing peaks or dips in certain frequencies.
– **Placement nuances:** The 2/5–3/5 placement rule still applies, but you must treat width and length dimensions independently (e.g., 2/5 of width ≠ 2/5 of length).

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### Practical impact:

– You might notice **more pronounced directionality** in sound—some tones might “favor” the longer axis.
– Exciter placement becomes a little more critical because hitting the right nodal/antinodal points differs on each axis.
– If the panel is *too* rectangular (like 12″ x 36″), bass response might be weaker along the shorter axis, affecting overall tone balance.

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### What to do:

– Apply the **2/5 and 3/5 distance rule separately to each dimension**.
– Consider **adding light bracing or edge support** along the long edges to control unwanted flapping or excessive resonance.
– Test exciter placement with some trial and error, ideally with a sweep tone or vibration sensor.

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### Bottom line:

Rectangular is fine—most bone conduction panels aren’t perfect squares anyway. Just expect your panel to have a more complex vibration behavior, and plan your exciter placement and mounting accordingly.

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Want me to help calculate exact placement points for your rectangular dimensions?
how about an oval?
Ah, an oval — now we’re entering *shape-shifting* territory. Oval panels bring their own quirks to the bone conduction dance:

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### Oval panel vibration: What changes?

– **No sharp corners = smoother vibration modes.**
Unlike rectangles, ovals avoid stress concentration at corners, often resulting in more uniform vibration patterns. Less “hot spots” and fewer annoying node lines.
– **Complex mode shapes.**
The vibration modes in an oval are less straightforward than rectangles or squares. They don’t align neatly along axes, which means predicting the best exciter spot gets trickier.
– **Potentially better bass response.**
The continuous curves can allow the panel to flex more naturally, sometimes boosting low-frequency resonance compared to a rectangle of the same area and thickness.

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### Placement challenges:

– The 2/5 and 3/5 rule is less reliable here since those fractions rely on straight edges.
– You’d want to find the **antinodal points** — spots of maximum vibration — experimentally or via vibration mapping tools.
– Typically, exciters go near the “sweet spots” along the major axis but offset from the centerline, often around 30–40% from the ends, but it depends.

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### Practical advice:

– Start with exciters about **1/3 to 2/5 along the major axis**, slightly off centerline width-wise.
– Expect to experiment: test different spots while playing sweep tones or using a vibration meter app.
– Consider adding light damping on edges or backing to control excessive ringing.

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### Summary:

Oval shapes can offer **smoother, more natural vibration**, potentially better tonal balance, but require more hands-on tuning for exciter placement. Not the easiest for a quick-and-dirty build, but cool if you want refined sound.

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Want me to sketch a rough exciter placement map for an oval panel your size?
one person just added 4″ radial cuts areound to square panels
Radial cuts around the edges of a square panel? Now that’s a spicy tweak.

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### What’s going on with those 4″ radial cuts?

– **Purpose:** They act like mechanical “flex joints” or release points, letting the panel edges flex more freely—kind of like a drumhead with slits.
– **Effect:** This can **reduce stiffness at the edges**, changing vibration modes and often boosting bass response by allowing more low-frequency movement.
– **Damping:** The cuts also can reduce unwanted ringing or harsh overtones by breaking up standing waves.

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### Pros:
– Better low-end extension—bass gets punchier.
– Potentially smoother, less harsh tone overall.
– Might improve efficiency by reducing energy lost in rigid edges.

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### Cons:
– Structural weakness—panel may be more fragile, prone to warping or damage.
– Requires careful execution—cuts too deep or uneven, and you get rattles or buzzing.
– Mounting gets trickier since the edges aren’t rigid anymore.

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### Is it worth it?

If you’re chasing better bass on a thin panel without adding mass or thickness, radial cuts are an interesting hack. But it’s experimental and not guaranteed—best for tinkering after you’ve got the basics nailed.

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Want me to help you design a cut pattern or suggest safer alternatives for better bass?
Not what I meant. My terms are wrong at time. I meant the corners were round
Ah, gotcha! Rounded corners instead of sharp square ones—much simpler and honestly, better in a few ways:

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### Rounded corners on a square panel — what’s the deal?

– **Reduces stress concentration:** Sharp corners can create stiff “dead zones” that mess with vibration patterns. Rounded corners smooth that out.
– **Smoother vibration modes:** Edges flex more naturally without abrupt changes, leading to more even sound distribution.
– **Less chance of cracks or damage:** Corners are less likely to chip or crack, especially on thin panels.

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### Acoustic impact:

– Minor but positive—more uniform vibration, fewer weird edge resonances or rattles.
– Bass response can improve slightly since the panel edge moves more freely.

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### Practical notes:

– Rounding corners is low-effort but smart—just a 1/2″ to 1” radius curve does the trick.
– Keeps your panel structurally sound while making it vibrate more musically.

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### TL;DR:

Rounded corners > sharp corners. It’s a subtle upgrade with mostly upside and no real downsides.

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Want tips on how to round those corners cleanly or recommended radius sizes?
This is beyond amazing! This little 20w speaker on an amazon packing box put our more sound that I thought possible.

**Right?!** Bone conduction + a cardboard box = *witchcraft* levels of acoustic sorcery.

That’s the magic of turning the *whole surface* into the speaker. You’ve essentially upgraded a cheap exciter into a full-range transducer by hijacking Amazon’s packaging engineering.

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### Why the box slaps:

– **Lightweight, flexible paneling:** Cardboard loves to move—it’s practically begging to vibrate.
– **Natural resonance chamber:** The hollow box acts like a crude speaker cabinet, amplifying and shaping sound, especially in the mid-bass.
– **Large radiating area:** Instead of a little cone, now the whole side of the box is pushing air. That’s efficient sound generation.

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### What this tells you:

– Panel choice matters—but *unexpected materials can sound amazing*.
– Shape, suspension, and exciter placement are the real dark arts.
– With careful design, you can get sound rivaling traditional speakers in compact, weird forms.

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Wanna try tuning it further? I can walk you through how to tweak box size, stiffness, or even add “ports” for a ghetto-rigged bass boost.
I notice if I lift it from the floor it jumps in sound
🎯 Bingo. You just discovered **acoustic coupling** and **mechanical damping**—without even cracking a textbook. Here’s what’s going on:

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### Why lifting the box improves sound:

#### 1. **Floor coupling kills vibration**
– When the box touches the floor, especially something hard like wood or concrete, a lot of that sweet vibration energy gets **sucked away** into the ground.
– Result: reduced panel motion = muffled or weaker sound.

#### 2. **Floor absorbs low frequencies**
– Floors act like massive dampers. Especially for bass, the floor can **cancel or absorb certain frequencies** before they bloom.

#### 3. **Lifting allows the whole box to resonate freely**
– When you suspend or lift the box, it becomes an **unleashed resonator**. No friction, no dampening, just full-body vibration.

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### TL;DR:
**Floor contact = bass killer.**
**Free-floating panel = full-bodied speaker.**

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### Hack tip:
Try suspending your panel from two strings at the top corners like a gallery painting or using small rubber bumpers/spacers on the bottom to decouple it from hard surfaces. You’ll get way more volume and better tone.

Wanna experiment with isolation pads or hanging options? I can whip up a few ghetto-fabulous and pro-grade solutions.
my tests show that a 1 1/2″ foam sheet works best, followed by a sigle sheet of cardboard.
Beautiful. You’re officially doing *real* acoustic engineering now—with intuition, junk, and foam. Let’s break down *why* your 1½” foam wins the vibe game:

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### Why foam rules:

#### 1. **Mechanical isolation**
– Foam **decouples** the panel from hard surfaces, preventing vibration energy from being drained. It’s like putting springs under a drum.

#### 2. **Minimal reflection**
– Unlike hard surfaces, foam **doesn’t reflect sound waves back into the box**, which can cause phase cancellations (muddy, uneven sound).

#### 3. **Some damping, not too much**
– 1½” foam adds just enough squish to **reduce harsh resonances** without choking the panel’s freedom to vibrate.

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### Why cardboard ranks second:

– It does some isolation, but it still reflects some mechanical energy back and **can absorb bass**, depending on thickness and density.
– Works well, just not as clean or open-sounding as foam.

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### TL;DR:

– **Foam = best lift + isolation + tone.**
– **Cardboard = okay, but not full decoupling.**
– **Floor = worst case, like chaining your speaker to a rock.**

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💡 **Pro tip:** If you want even more gain and clarity:
– Put the panel on **foam blocks under just the corners**, not the whole thing. Gives support *and* more vibration freedom.
– Try hanging the panel slightly off the foam using fishing line or elastic cord to reduce contact even more.

You’re basically building a vibration altar. Want schematics for a simple suspended frame?
yes
Excellent. Here’s a quick-and-dirty, highly effective setup for a **suspended bone conduction panel frame** using household items or cheap parts:

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## 🔧 Goal:
**Suspend your panel (wood, wall board, etc.) with an exciter on the back** so it can vibrate freely, isolated from any damping surface. You’ll get *max volume, clarity, and resonance*.

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## 🧰 Materials:
– 4 wooden dowels (or PVC, broomsticks, etc.) – about 3–4 ft long
– String, fishing line, or elastic cord
– Foam pads (or yoga mat scraps) for shock absorption
– Eye screws or zip ties
– Your panel with the excitor mounted
– Optional: tripod stands or tension clamps to hold it up, or just build a rectangle frame

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## 🛠️ Build steps:

### 1. **Make a frame**
– Create a rectangle (or square) using your dowels.
– Think of a picture frame shape or a sawhorse-type A-frame if going vertical.
– For extra simplicity: jam the dowels into 4 corner flowerpots or bricks.

### 2. **Attach suspension lines**
– Drill tiny holes or screw eyelets into the **top two corners of your panel**.
– Tie fishing line or elastic from each panel corner to the top of the frame.
– Leave about **1–2 inches of “sag”** so the panel isn’t rigidly held.

### 3. **Add shock absorbers**
– Put small foam pads or rubber bumpers between the panel and the string where it touches.
– Optional: let the **bottom of the panel just *kiss* some soft foam**—helps with stability without full damping.

### 4. **Test and tune**
– Play sweep tones.
– Nudge the panel angle slightly.
– Adjust the tension of the strings or try different hanging heights.

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## 🧪 Optional madness:

– Add an adjustable counterweight system if you’re really nerding out.
– Mount a cheap laser pointer and use a phone camera to visualize vibration modes like DIY Schlieren.
– Add acoustic diffuser panels around the setup for an at-home “anechoic-ish” test chamber.

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Want me to draw a diagram of this setup or suggest an easier hanging version that uses wall hooks instead?
The same 1 1/2” foam blocks or sheets with oval cut outs has more volume, a little less bas
Ohhh, you’re *dialing it in* now. Oval cutouts in the foam? That’s not just clever—it’s damn near **acoustic judo**.

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### 🧠 Why oval cutouts boost volume (but drop bass):

#### 🔊 **More volume:**
– The **cutout reduces surface contact**, meaning less energy is absorbed by the foam.
– The panel has **more freedom to resonate** like a trampoline stretched over an air hole. The shape helps focus vibration into a “breathing” motion.
– You’ve basically built a **floating diaphragm** with a soft springy border.

#### 🔉 **Less bass:**
– Bass needs *mass* and *support*. The less the panel is grounded, the harder it is to move the big air needed for bass.
– Your cutout acts like a **high-pass filter**—you’re freeing up the panel’s treble/mid movement, but sacrificing some low-end “push.”

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### 🧪 What to try next:

#### 1. **Foam cutout “ring”**
Cut an oval or round shape that supports only the edges of the panel with a ~1″ border, like a floating picture frame. That balances isolation and support.

#### 2. **Double foam—small inner, firm outer**
Use soft foam inside the cutout, firmer foam outside. Gives bass back without over-damping mids.

#### 3. **Add a light counterweight or mass to the panel back**
Just a coin-sized bit of clay or a washer can *tilt* the response back toward bass. Placement matters—start near the bottom opposite the exciter.

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### TL;DR:
Oval cutouts = volume booster.
Bass suffers a bit due to lost reactive mass.
You’re basically tuning the speaker like a weird mechanical EQ.

Want a visual of the “floating frame” foam layout or tips for how to mass-load the panel discreetly?